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Rathna Dr B.R.Ambedkar thundered “Main Bharat Baudhmay karunga.” (I
will make Prabuddha Bharat Buddhist) Now All Aboriginal Awakened
Societies Thunder ” Hum Vishwa Prabuddhamay karunge.” (We will make
world Prabuddha Prapanch) People have started returning back to their
original home Buddhism.
understanding, loving and conserving one’s sexual energy, and through a
healthy lifestyle including raw food, special herbs, antioxidants,
daily exercise in a natural environment, meditation, yoga and drinking
loads of negatively ionized alkaline water, one can enjoy a powerful
transmutation of physical desires into bliss.
(the food which does not increase laziness, ignorance and criminal
tendencies, for example, meat) Avoid food that overstimulates the mind.
Avoid alcohol, drugs or spices. Adopt a plant-based diet without dairy
(Vegan).
ought to know that there are two levels of hunger. First, there is
physical, material hunger, which is a natural process of life. The body
instinctually feels hunger regarding its natural needs: clothing, food,
shelter, medicine, exercise. This kind of hunger is no problem
animation introduces the learner to various features of a
co-operative society, merits and limitations of a co-operative society.
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animation introduces the learner to various features of a co-operative
society, merits and limitations of a co-operative society.0:00 -
Introduction o…
how domesticated flowers and fruit trees that manifest those
fragrant,colorful, sweet and plump traits so valued by humans, first
arose and havebeen sustained over the centuries, even when propagated to
different parts ofthe world: There has been an ongoing process of
artificial selection, ofdeliberate human intervention into the
evolutionary process, that has servedcontinually to re-domesticate
Buddhism, to preserve, to enhance or wherenecessary to restore
Buddhism’s radical message in its pristine functionalauthenticity, which
might otherwise quickly degrade in an environment whereits qualities
might otherwise count little toward its survival. The result is an Adept
Buddhism that runs counter to the prevailing expectation that
somethingas sophisticated as Buddhism will degrade under the onslaught
of theembedding folk culture. Adept Buddhism is the authentic practice
andunderstanding upheld through deliberate cultivation and breeding by
membersof the adept community. Adept Buddhism is what some scholars have
alsonamed normative Buddhism or high Buddhism.
are these adepts? Roughly they are the rocket scientists, the surveyors
ofviews, the bearers of high-tech water bottles, those capable of
comprehendingand ensuring the authenticity of Buddhist practice and
understanding even asBuddhism takes on new forms. Clearly those of the
highest attainment andunderstanding are found in the Noble Sangha, the
Noble Ones who havereached at least the first stage of Awakening, at
which self-view and doubthave fallen away, who see clearly Nirvana and
the Path that leads there. Thoseformally entrusted with the task of
domesticating Buddhism are the MonasticSangha, institutionally charged
by the Buddha with guarding the Sasana. Themost relevant points for this
chapter of their ten-point Vinaya missionstatement are the last four
points which we learned in Chapter Four:
is the Monastic Sangha that tends to spin off Noble Ones, so we
cantherefore regard theVinaya as the primary basis of Adept Buddhism,
alongwith the Path. But additionally there may be non-noble
non-monastics who canbe considered part of the adept complex,
particularly dedicated lay scholarsand practitioners who contribute
their own peculiar expertise to the process ofcultivation and breeding
the Sasana. In short, adepts are roughly, but notentirely, associated
with the Sangha, in both senses of “Sangha.” Adept Buddhism is radical
in its vision of the perfected human character andthe singular
attainment toward which it is directed. This accounts for theresilience
of the Buddha-Sasana: the content of Adept Buddhism is orthodoxin
upholding its basis in a singular attainment, not nearly so subject
toinnovation nor to culture-specific understandings, trends or fads as
FolkBuddhism. Resilience is therefore a prominent property of Adept
Buddhism.This means also that Adept Buddhists are very likely to share
most of theirunderstandings and practices with the Adept Buddhists of
other lands, cultures,traditions and eras, and so to possess what is
most universal about Buddhism.However, the content of Adept Buddhism is
itself also gradually over timeshaped by the local culture, since its
adepts sometimes adapt, always in a deliberate manner, expressions of
that culture into their adept understanding orpractice, while preserving
functional authenticity. A primary example of a latercultural intrusion
into Adept Buddhism comes from the Far East as thefashioning of formal
and ritual elements under Confucian influence into theBuddhist practice
of mindfulness.
Orthodox, limited folk adaptations It should be noted that adepts are
typically conversant with a local FolkBuddhism, having typically been
raised as Folk Buddhists before becomingadepts. As such they are
effectively bi-religious. When some of Suzuki Roshi’sAmerican students
traveled back to Japan with him they found him engagingwith Japanese
Folk Buddhists in a way that was quite distinct from what theyhad
learned from him, and in fact incomprehensible to them. Although
heimparted Adept Buddhism in America he could also become a Japanese
FolkBuddhist on demand, keeping the two Buddhisms separate in his own
mind,alongside the two languages he used to render them. Other adepts
seem tohave more trouble knowing where the Adept Buddhism stops and the
FolkBuddhism begins. This is rarely a problem as long as there is no
contradictionbetween the two, or until one is required to teach Buddhism
outside one’s ownculture. (I suspect that the Asian masters who became
successful teachers inthe West, such as Suzuki Roshi and Chögyam
Trungpa, are by and large thosebest able to keep their Buddhisms
straight.) Although we all share democratic ideals, the idea of adepts
in Buddhismshould not puzzle or concern. Almost every area of human
endeavor has itsadepts. Many people can change the washer in a faucet,
or turn off the mainvalve if there is a leak, but when something gets
more difficult than that theycall a plumber, because she is the expert.
Even in routine things that almosteverybody does, like driving or
vacuuming, some people are more adept thanothers. As the depth of
understanding and practice in particular fields gets verysophisticated,
humankind inevitably sorts itself into adepts and regular folk.And the
regular folk will, as needed, appeal to the authority of the adepts
foradvice, service, or (should they desire to become adepts themselves)
training.
art or music, birdwatching or hiking. The depth or sophistication
ofBuddhism is of the order, say, of a science, of music or of medicine,
andAwakening is of the order of genius. Buddhism will (and must!) have
itsadepts.
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Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.)
The Spruce / K. Dave
Berries are an easy way to try your hand at growing fruit. Blueberries are
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attractive
three-season shrubs with pretty white spring flowers, summer fruit, and
gorgeous red fall foliage. Growing blueberries requires some advance
work to ensure the soil is acidic
enough, but the shrubs should live and produce fruit for years. For a
large harvest, you will need two varieties for good pollination.
In cold winter climates, grow highbush blueberries, such as the
‘Bluecrop’ cultivar. Gardeners in mild climates should opt for either
rabbiteye or southern highbush varieties. You can also grow blueberries in containers. Just be sure to cover your plants with netting to protect them from birds once the fruit arrives.
- USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 10; varies according to variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
- Soil Needs: Rich, acidic, medium to wet moisture, well-draining
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02
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Strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Freshly picked strawberries
are well worth the minimal effort it takes to grow them. You have a
choice among three types: June bearing, which sets one large crop in
June (nice for preserves and freezing); everbearing, which produces two
to three smaller harvests per season; and day neutral, which continually
sets small amounts of strawberries throughout the season.
Strawberry plants like to spread via runners. But for the best fruit
production, limit the runners to just a few plants and prune the rest.
Also, pinch off the blossoms in a plant’s first season to prevent it
from fruiting. This will allow it to put its energy toward developing a
healthy root system, which will significantly increase its output the
next season. Finally, expect to replace or rejuvenate your strawberry plant every three to five years.
- USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9; varies according to variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, slightly acidic, medium moisture, well-draining
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03
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Raspberries and Blackberries (Rubus spp.)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Raspberries and blackberries
have always been backyard favorites. But older varieties can be
rambunctious plants, spreading widely and covered in thorns that made
harvesting a painful chore. Newer cultivars are much better behaved and
thornless. Moreover, planting a mix of early, mid-season, and
late-season varieties will extend your harvest for weeks.
The plants do require annual pruning to keep them productive, but it is a
quick job. The goal with pruning is to thin the plants enough that
light and air can reach all parts. This benefits growth and helps to
prevent disease.
- USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 8; varies according to variety
- Color Variations: Raspberry fruits are pale to dark red; blackberries, dark purple to black.
- Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
- Soil Needs: Rich, slightly acidic, moist, well-draining
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04
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Grapes (Vitis labrusca ‘Concord’)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Although grapevines are not hard to grow, you will face stiff
competition at harvest time from birds and other animals. Plus, grapes
need some type of trellis
or support to grow on. There are also a lot of recommendations on how
to prune them, but many people grow grapes quite successfully even with a
relaxed approach to pruning.
Check with your local extension office
to learn about the best grape varieties for your area. And be sure to
note whether a variety is best for eating or winemaking. Most grape
varieties need a sunny location with rich soil that has good drainage
and air circulation to prevent disease.
- USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 9; varies according to variety
- Color Variations: Many white, green, purple, and blue grape varieties are available.
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, medium moisture, well-draining
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05
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Apples (Malus pumila)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Many gardeners want to grow apples,
but they can be difficult to grow well because apple trees are prone to
many insect and disease problems. Although new cultivars were bred to
be hardy, they still require some spraying, covering, or other
protection methods. Apple trees also need a great deal of pruning.
When pruning, focus on thinning branches to increase the amount of
sunlight and airflow that can hit all parts of the tree. This promotes
healthy growth and helps to prevent disease.
You’ll need two different apple tree varieties
for pollination. To save space, you can select trees with multiple
varieties grafted onto one trunk, or opt for a small columnar tree that
can be grown in a container. Plus, for easier care or if you have
limited space, consider the dwarf varieties.
- USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9; varies according to variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, medium moisture, well-draining
- Color Variations: Many green and red fruit varieties are available.
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06
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Cherries (Prunus avium)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Cherries are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow and care for. They
require minimal to no pruning and are rarely plagued by pests or
diseases. Sweet cherries need two trees for cross-pollination unless you
plant a tree with two different varieties grafted on it. You can get
away with just one tree if you are growing sour baking cherries.
Prune your cherry tree in the winter while it is still dormant, and
fertilize it in the early spring. Moreover, these trees aren’t very
drought tolerant. So ensure that they get watering or rainfall at least
weekly or more during hot weather.
- USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 8; varies according to variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-draining
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07
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Peaches (Prunus persica)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Peach trees
tend to be small enough to fit in most backyard sizes. And when the
peaches are ripening, you can smell their sweetness several yards
away. Plus, a benefit to growing this thin-skinned fruit yourself is
you’ll get to enjoy the freshest produce straight from the tree, rather
than the old and potentially bruised options at the supermarket.
These trees do require some pruning to keep the branches productive and
at a manageable height. Thinning young trees helps them to produce
smaller crops of large peaches, rather than heavy crops of tiny peaches.
Peach trees are typically pruned into an open V, with three to five main branches that allow light and air to hit the center.
- USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 9; varies by variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
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08
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Figs (Ficus carica)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
Fig trees
are surprisingly easy to grow either in the ground or in containers.
They do not require much pruning and are usually pest-free. Most fig
varieties are only reliably hardy down to USDA hardiness zone 7, but there are a few new cultivars that are hardier.
If you choose to grow your fig tree in a container and move it indoors
for the winter, keep the container small. The more confined the roots
are, the smaller the top of the tree will remain. It will be much easier
to move, and you will still get plenty of figs.
- USDA Growing Zones: 6 to 9; varies according to variety
- Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
- Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-draining
09
of 09
Melons (Citrullus lanatus)
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The Spruce / K. Dave
If you aren’t ready for the commitment of a tree or shrub, you can still
grow delicious melons in your garden or in containers. Melons need a
lot of sun and heat. They also require ample space, as they grow on
vines that can easily reach 20 feet or more. It is possible to grow
melons on a trellis, but you will need to choose a variety with small
fruits. Large melons, such as watermelon, can become so heavy that they will drop right off the plant.
Plant your melons after the danger of frost has passed for the season.
Water regularly as they grow and become established. Then, once the
fruits start to appear, you can back off a bit on watering.
- USDA Growing Zones: Grown as annuals in zones 2 to 11
- Color Variations: Fruit can be red-, pink-, orange-, or yellow-fleshed.
- Sun Exposure: Full sun
- Soil Needs: Rich, loamy, moist, well-draining
14 Vegetables to Grow In A Small Garden
May 11, 2013
14 Vegetables to Grow in a Small Garden
“I don’t have much space, what are the best vegetables to grow outside in my small garden?”
This has been one of the most often asked questions which is encouraging as one of the first pieces of advice is start small! Why? Because you’re less likely to give up growing your own if you don’t take on too much at once.
You’ve installed a couple of raised beds, you’ve cleared a space for
some veggies somewhere bright and sunny in your garden, or you’re even
planning on planting vegetables among your flower borders or in
containers; now you’re wondering what you might grow in your small
vegetable garden that will give you the most return for your efforts.
The following might help you take the next steps to growing vegetables
in a small garden.
Four tips to bear in mind when growing in a small vegetable garden
1. Grow what you like to eat – no sense growing spinach if you can’t stand the taste.
2. Choose vegetable varieties that are expensive in the shops
– shallots, mangetout or early potatoes can all add a few extra cent to
your weekly budget which means you may never buy them or they’re only
ever special treats.
3. Choose leafy veg that you can harvest a few leaves off and they will keep growing (known as cut and come again), beans or peas that will keep producing the more you pick them, bulbs that will break up into smaller cloves or small vegetables that don’t take up much space.
4. Grow something different.
Most supermarkets only sell the most popular vegetables with chards and
pretty spinach varieties such as Bordeaux never seeing their shelves.
Now’s a chance for you to grow something you’d like to eat and not be
told what to eat by the Buyers.
Suggested vegetables to grow in a small garden
In no particular order, here’s a list of vegetables that have grown
well in gardens I’ve worked with of all shapes and sizes. I’m not
suggesting you grow them all at once, mix and match and see what grows
well for you.
Shallots
Shallots – a member of the
Allium (onion) family, just one set (immature bulb) planted in the soil
will develop into five or six shallots. They also store well over
winter and can be expensive to buy in shops. Easy to grow from set or
seed, January to April, harvest during late summer.
Garlic Bulb
Garlic – again an Allium, when you plant one clove, it will develop into a whole bulb and is very easy to grow once you follow the planting guide. Garlic stores well, plant autumn/winter or early spring. Harvest late summer.
Grow Your Own Kale
Kale – there are many types of kale from scarlet to Russian, curly green to Tuscany.
If you harvest a few leaves off each plant, rather than stripping the
plant bare, it will grow more leaves and keep producing for you for
months, from late summer through to early spring. Sow seed spring and
autumn, matures in 50 to 60 days.
Purple Sprouting brocoli
(PSB) – as with the kale above, keep picking the small florets from
several plants and not stripping one bare. Also you’ll be eating this
plant during late winter/early spring when there’s not too much else
around to eat.
Potatoes
Early potatoes – if you’re keen to grow potatoes,
not only do early varieties grow faster than their main crop cousins,
they’re usually pricier in the shops and all being well, you’ll have
harvested them before the blight. Earlies also grow well in containers.
Plant late March, harvest 12-12 weeks later
Mangetout
– some gardeners don’t bother at all with peas finding them too much
bother, but we eat mangetout before the peas form in the pods and are
delicious eaten straight off the plant. If you miss a few when picking
them, they will still form little peas giving you a second chance at
them. Sow February, harvest June.
Lettuce
Lettuce – Cut & come again salad leaves
or loose-leaf lettuce – there are lots of varieties of lettuce that the
leaves are plucked off as you want them and not harvesting the entire
plant. We’ve enjoyed many salad meals with just six plants! Sow March to
September, harvest May to November.
Beetroot – from your garden bears only a slight
resemblance to that sold in the shops – it’s delicious plus you can eat
the leaves! We steam the leaves as a side vegetable here in the
Greenside Up kitchen. Two supplies can provide up to eight months
supply. Sow March to July, harvest June to October.
Rainbow Chard
Chard and spinach – again, versatile cut and come again leafy
vegetables that will just keep on giving for months. Stem & leaf can
be used. Sow March to July, harvest all year.
Tangled carrots
Early carrots – small round or early – most
vegetable gardeners like to grow carrots but are surprised how long they
take to develop! Choose small early varieties like Nantes or round
Paris Market’s for something different. Chanteney carrots are expensive
in the shops and are a deliciously sweet variety of carrot too. Sow
February or March undercover, or April to early July. Harvest May
onwards.
Zucchini
Courgettes – they can get quite large depending upon
the summer and how exposed your garden is, but one plant of courgettes
will feed a family for weeks! Plants can also be grown in large
containers of multipurpose compost on a sunny patio. Sow April to June,
harvest June to September.
Cherry tomato
Cherry tomatoes – tiny, sweet cherry tomatoes will
grow in beds, borders or hanging baskets and are a good choice if you’re
new to tomato growing. Easy to maintain as they don’t need sideshoots
removed or support. Sow February to April, harvest July to September.
Runner Beans
Runner or French beans beans – the first time I ever
grew runner beans was in a large container outside the door with a
makeshift wigwam frame I made for the beans to grow up. It provided
enough beans for a few dinners and our children loved watching them
grow. Sow April to June, harvest July to frosts.
Herbs
– all your favourite herbs (with the exception of basil) will grow
easily outside. Either make a small herb garden near to your house, grow
in window boxes or containers, or add them to the sides or ends of your
beds.
No vegetable garden would be complete without edible flowers that also act as companion plants
– Calendula, French marigolds, Borage and nasturtiums not only bring
colour and pazaz to a garden, they also bring pollinators in or can act
as sacrificial plants the pests will eat first, leaving your veg alone.
Rainbow Chard & Nasturtiums
Lastly don’t forget that fruit, herbs and vegetables can be grown in containers too so if your beds are full of veg, why not consider growing some fruit outside your door or on your balcony.
Have you any favourite varieties that would grow well in small gardens?
