14) Classical Azerbaijani- Klassik Azərbaycan,
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If you thought broccoli
was a once-a-year, one-shot affair, think again. Just about any
gardener in the United States can harvest crops two, or even three times
a year. How? In most areas, by sowing seed in July. For that third
harvest of the year, gardeners in zones US Hardiness Zone 7b through 9a
can sow certain varieties again in late summer for an overwintering
crop. You’ll find all the whys and wherefores later in the article, but
you’ll have to know first what zone you live in.
broccoli planting strategy calls for sowing seed in spring.
Specifically, sow seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring
frost and transplant into the garden 3 to 4 weeks later for an early
summer harvest. While this schedule is fine in most regions, only
gardeners in northern, short-season zones 3 to 4a are limited to it.
These gardeners, in cities such as Bismarck, Minneapolis, and
Montpelier, Vermont, should choose any of the standard southern European
varieties from the list below.
Gardeners in zones 9b and 10 are
similarly limited, but to the opposite season. Cool spring is too short,
and summer is too hot in zones 9b and 10 for broccoli. In cities such
as Houston, New Orleans, Phoenix, and Orlando, sow seed in fall for an
early spring harvest. Choose any variety from the list below.
If you live in zones 4b to 6a:
Although the cold temperatures and shorter days of fall come quickly in
the North, you can harvest an early summer crop from a late spring
planting; or harvest in September and October from an early summer (June
or July) planting. For the latter, choose a variety that matures
quickly and that has good frost tolerance, such as ‘Green Valiant‘, in case there’s an early frost.
seeds indoors or direct sow into the garden 10 to 12 weeks before the
first expected frost in your area. If you buy transplants, plant them 6
to 8 weeks before the first frost. For best germination when direct
seeding, sow seeds about 3/4 to 1 inch deep, keep the soil moist and
shaded. Whether you start with seeds or transplants, planting in
midsummer means heat is likely to stress young broccoli plants. Provide
afternoon shade until harvest by erecting shade cloth, or grow broccoli
plants in north-south rows on the east side of tall summer crops, such
as pole beans and sweet corn.
If you live in zones 6b to 7a:
Summer comes quicker in these regions, so gardeners here are better off
forgoing the spring crop and planting only for a fall crop following
the planting schedule outlined in the previous section.
stagger the fall harvest, plant broccoli blends (such as George’s
Favorite Blend, which mixes three or four varieties together) or make
your own blend by planting some early, midseason, and late-maturing
varieties simultaneously. This way you can stretch your harvest season
from October to perhaps January.
If you live in zones 7b to 9a:
Gardeners in these zones can grow any of the standard broccolis for a
fall harvest (again following the directions above) as well as the
northern European overwintering varieties of broccoli. Transplanted in
late summer these varieties grow slowly through the winter and head up
in March to May.
NG test gardeners planted these overwintering
broccolis last fall and several reported good results to temperatures as
low as 10° F. And Tim Peters at Peters Seed and Research Company tells
me that one variety, ‘Spring Green Mix’, is hardy to 0° F.
of these genetically distinct strains of broccoli look like familiar
market broccoli, which originated in southern Europe. Others look more
like cauliflower and some have purplish shoots.
overwintering types need a cold period to head properly. That’s why, in
contrast to the standard varieties, these succeed only as overwintered
crops in zones 7b to 9a.
Start overwintering broccolis early in
summer and transplant them in August, so plants have time to grow by
January. Plants that are either too small or too large at the onset of
low temperatures will suffer. Also, don’t overfertilize. Use one-half
the recommended rate — about 3/4 cup of 5-10-10 per plant — at
planting time and apply the other half the following spring.
broccolis are heavy feeders. Before planting standard varieties, mix
into your soil 2 cubic feet of aged manure or 3 pounds of a 5-10-10
fertilizer per 100 square feet. Sidedress with a pound of blood meal per
100-square-foot area when the transplants are about 6 inches tall.
Broccoli is sensitive to some nutrient deficiencies — especially boron
(a common deficiency of coastal plain soils from New Jersey to
Louisiana). Without adequate boron, plants develop small,
mouse-ear-sized top leaves and hollow stems. If your soil tests low in
boron, apply 1/2 tablespoon of borax mixed with compost over 100 square
feet of garden.
Space plants 18 inches apart for large-sized
heads. For better overall production, but smaller heads, space plants 12
inches apart. Mulch with a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of straw to keep
the soil cool and moist.
insects can quickly kill a young broccoli plant. To control the most
devastating ones (imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, harlequin bugs,
and cabbage maggots), cover broccoli transplants with a lightweight row
cover, such as Agrofabric Pro-10. Leave it on throughout the season. The
cover will let in light, air, and water, but unlike traditional row
covers, it won’t increase the temperature by more than 5oF. More
important, the cover will prevent harlequin bugs from feeding and the
adult forms of these other cabbage pests from laying eggs on the plants.
If you prefer not to use row covers, spraying with Bt will
control any larvae, and pyrethrin will control harlequin bugs. Spray
when you first see signs of insect damage. Place tar paper mats around
young broccoli transplants to stop the cabbage maggot fly from laying
Here are the broccoli
varieties I recommend for a fall or early spring harvest. It’s based on
discussions with gardeners and researchers throughout the United States,
as well as my own experience here in Vermont. Information included is
whether the variety is hybrid or open-pollinated (you can save your own
seeds from the latter), the days to maturity from transplant (so you can
mix early, midseason, and late varieties to extend harvest), and the
variety’s genetic ancestry, which indicates cold tolerance.